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Rosemary,

Can you tell if this is a Sears home kit. I looked thru the catalog till I couldnt stay awake anymore, and thought that since you know so much about these homes. Someone at the auction told me it was a kit. There are some perspective drawings, that look close, but the floor plans dont match.

I recently purchased the property, and am planning a exterior restoration, and a master suite addition on the main level, and want to keep the exterior appearance intact. Can you help?






Original photos: circa 1929. Built in 1928

 
Posts: 4 | Registered: 10-22-06Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
<Rollie>
Posted
The exterior is quite similar to the Sheridan:

Sheridan

and the upper level floor plan is almost exactly like the Bedford, but the staircase is not the same. Bedford

The main floor plan is very similar to the Wayne except its bigger. there is a library off the dining room.

Main floor plan is similar to the Delmar also, but with the library again.
Delmar



Wayne
 
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Bev
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Wow, the old porch is so awesome. I really like the dark trim on the windows in the old black and white photos. That is very striking.

Please post pictures as you go through this. Are there any original A & C features left in the house?

By the way, does anyone know if the Sears kit houses were ever done in brick?

Bev.
 
Posts: 290 | Registered: 05-11-06Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I don't think its a Sears. Unless a house was customized, it's usually a dead on match for the catalog dimensions.

And yes, there are brick Sears houses. You could order it in brick instead of siding or shingles. I've seen a brick crescent, walton and whitehall here in Cincinnati.
 
Posts: 107 | Location: Cincinnati, OH USa | Registered: 07-08-02Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Its going to be an exciting restoration for us! Thanks for the replies so far. A local magazine wants to document the process as we go along.

If anyone wants to look at the property, here is the album to date. We are waiting for the sale of our current 6 year old home to sell, before we can forge ahead with the restoration/ master suite addition.

We have been working on the acreage/grounds, since July.

New farm
 
Posts: 4 | Registered: 10-22-06Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Bev
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Dear Rollie,

You are so lucky, no one painted the downstairs wood work white!I can see why you bought it--the interior is lovely.

And you have the original tub with subway tiles. That will be a fun room to restore. I wonder if there are any hexagonal white porcelain tile underneath that carpet?

Thanks for the pictures.

Bev.
 
Posts: 290 | Registered: 05-11-06Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Bev,

Thanks for looking. Its a really, really nice place, and we are intent on enhancing it.

One of the problems I've found in reading online things is we want to add a master suite on the main level and maintaining the classic bungalow exterior style, without overpowereing the structure with the suite.



I hadnt noticed the subway tiles? I just looked at the pictures. I dont know if they are tiles, or some kind of paneling. I'll check it out tonight.
 
Posts: 4 | Registered: 10-22-06Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Bev
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Dear Rollie,

One of the problems with additions is that home owners build rooms that are out of scale for their old house.

A good rule of thumb is to make the walls of your addition only two feet longer than the longest wall in the house or only two feet bigger than the largest room in the house. And the other issue is to keep the same or nearly the same ceiling heights.

Have you been in the old 1950's ranches where they add a great room in the back of the house that is three times the size of the other rooms? They add a wall of windows, completely different flooring, and a high cathedral ceiling. It makes you feel like you are traveling through a dark cave into a room of light. That is a nice effect but what you want to avoid if you are attempting to stay with the "style" of a fifties ranch. That type of a great room is dramatic and charming but feels out of place.

The other problem is trying to match the original exterior walls of the bungalow. Sometimes, you have to get the clapboards custom made because the size is not produced today. It's difficult to match the old river rock or brick. Nothing looks worse on a brick bungalow that an addition finished with aluminum siding.

I would love to do a project like yours some day. That house of yours has such good "bones" to play with--I envy you the adventure but not the frustration nor expense.

Have fun.

Bev.
 
Posts: 290 | Registered: 05-11-06Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Bev,

Thanks for the insight.

As far as the exterior, I am planning a complete exterior remodel, down to the bare studs from the exterior inward. The plaster is nearly perfect inside, as is the window casings.

From the exterior demolition, comes wiring, insulation, sheathing, windows, and 2 1/2" exposire lap siding, same as what is on there now. I have gotten a good price on the clear heart cedar clapboard, at least one I can live with.

We are thinking about a 16 ft extension off the south elevation, two storys tall, with the upper level dormer extended out the whole distance. Right now, the 3D looks a little overpowering size wise, but I dont have any windows or doors placed in the plan, not do I have a floor plan even completed. I'm kind of working my way through the exterior elevation first, because thats most important to us. I'll work the floor plan out after we get a idea of the exterior scope of the work.



I have 35 years residential construction experience, so I have the background, and the experience to tackle the project. Plus, we have been looking for almot 15 years for a place in the country, and now that our daughter is gone to college, our reasons for living in town, have gone away.

Its funny you should mention the old river rock. I literally had a salesman walk into my office while I was responding to your post, and took me away for half an hour. He has a simply awesome product, called RealStone. It is actual granite boulders sliced into slabs. HE says they can slice an 18 inch granite boulder so it looks like a loaf of bread in 41 seconds, with their patented process. They salvage the exterior skin (2") of the boulder, for a split face look, and then slice the rest of the boulder into 3/4inch slabs, for a true granite veneer. They have split face option, a smooth face options, and a textured flat face option. I am really excited about this product, and the price is very, very competitive to cultured stone, which will run $6-9 a sq ftt materials, this real granite product is in the $8-10 range, without the fakiness of cultured stone.

291 blended colors, no two pieces exactly alike, ever. I like that. plus, you can acid wash it, or power wash it. Dont try that with cultured..
 
Posts: 4 | Registered: 10-22-06Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Bev
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The one thing that we did not do when we built our last housewas to add a hollow tube from the basement to the attic. This could hold any new wiring technology that becomes the thing of the future.

About windows for your new addition, check out Anderson. They have some awesome windows where you can add a variety of stained glass in craftsman, FLW, or arts & crafts styles. Their website is hard to use. It might be easier to order their book.

What is your roof line of the addition going to look like? Are you going to hide from the front view of the house? Is the South end the back end or side of the house?

People say that it is almost cheaper to add on a new kitchen with updated wiring and appliances instead of trying to rennovate the small bungalow kitchens. A lot of people just put a bedroom above it.

Are you going to include a new half bath downstairs that shares the same wet wall with the master?

That new stone sounds perfect. Are you still in the design stage?

Bev.
 
Posts: 290 | Registered: 05-11-06Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
<Rollie ul>
Posted
quote:
Originally posted by Bev:
The one thing that we did not do when we built our last housewas to add a hollow tube from the basement to the attic. This could hold any new wiring technology that becomes the thing of the future.

About windows for your new addition, check out Anderson. They have some awesome windows where you can add a variety of stained glass in craftsman, FLW, or arts & crafts styles. Their website is hard to use. It might be easier to order their book. I attended the Journal of Light Construction seminars in Minneapolis last month, and went to a seminar put on by Anderson about there replacement windows. They have the ability to install either form the outside, or the inside, depending on how you size them, and they also have 3 different degrees of sill tilt. They seemed like a great ticket, but the only problem is, is that there are several rotting sills on the home, and the replacements depend on setting on top of the existing sloped sills. It was a nice product though, and they had the exact window configuration as is in the home now, which I liked, only they didnt have the wavy glass. hehehe

What is your roof line of the addition going to look like? Are you going to hide from the front view of the house? Is the South end the back end or side of the house? I dont have a picture of the south end of the house, what you see, is the north front, and the west side in the pictures I have posted. The south elevation looks exactly like the north, and my intent, is to add 16 feet onto the south, with the ceiling heights matching up. Project the valleys down to the rake edges, which would leave about a 3-4 foot knee wall in the upper level room, and the continue the dormer out to the south end of the 16 foot addition. I am monkeying around with a couple additional dormers off the large roof addition, to break it up. The addition would not be seen from the road, nor the highway approaching from the east. I know, that doesnt make it right, if its overpowering, I'm not cast in stone about this yet, and am definitley still in design stages.

People say that it is almost cheaper to add on a new kitchen with updated wiring and appliances instead of trying to rennovate the small bungalow kitchens. A lot of people just put a bedroom above it.

Are you going to include a new half bath downstairs that shares the same wet wall with the master? There is a full bath on the main level, just off the kitchen. It has a 36 inch vanity, and a 30 inch shower, so its not much, but adequate, since there is no bedrooms on the main level now. I dont need to tie the addition into the wet wall of the existing bath, because the sewer main is under the foundation wall I am adding onto, and I can tie directly onto it with the drains. The home has a new septic sytem, installed last fall, that has never been used.

That new stone sounds perfect. Are you still in the design stage? yes, very much so. Our 6 year old home is on the market, which is real stinky right now. Our hopes, were to sell our home, and move into the bungalow, as it is, through the winter, and see how it "treated" us, and then decide if we were going to do the restoration, or tear it down, and replace it with a similar looking structure, that fit our needs. Everyone who has seen the home, tells us, "you cannot tear this home dow"! so the plans are underway to forging onward with the restoration designs and plans, and do it when our home sells For right now, we ar eholding two mortgages for the dirst time in our life. Its scary, but we feel we are able to easily go for 12-18 months this way. The problem is, there is no money right now available to remodel a perfectly good home, in hopes of our current home selling. I dont want to borrow any more than I already have. When my home sell, we will be in good shape, as I have roled over 5 new home sales over the last 12 yars into our current home. I dont owe much on that one, but owe almost everything on the new acreage.

Bev.
 
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