I am working on "tuning-up" the windows in my 'new' 1924 Craftsman bungalow. Most of the broken sash cords are on the lower (inner) sash which is relatively eash to access. The upper sashes, however, are more difficult to get at. The articles I've read say to remove the parting bead and remove the sash from the inside. Has anyone tried removing the outer stops and removing the upper sash from the outside?

I've repaired sash windows doing it both ways (but I rebuild the sill while I was at it, so I had the complete window out). The some of issues you have to consider are: will you be able to get to the old weights (since you have broken cords), or install new/old weights. If they did a good job, the siding will abutt the window sill, making it difficult to get inside the wall. They normally leave room on the inside.
Alternatively, they make replacement springs that take the place of the pulley (and look like the pulley) so you wouldn't need to get inside the wall.

Little by little I have been repairing the double-hung sashes in my 1921 Craftsman over the last 3 three years (I have 46 casement/sash windows in my home!)and I never considered removing exterior trim to get the window out. Why? Because you already must have removed the interior jamb trim to get at the weights anyway, so why create more work than is necessary? You are correct in that the lower sash is easier to remove, and you probably will destroy the parting bead when you remove it for access to the uppers but it is easy and inexpensive to buy replacement stock from a lumberyard. And I will share a tip with you. You only have to remove one side of the parting bead to get the upper window out and that will save you a great deal of work. Then you can replace broken glass and cracked glazing compound from the comfort (and safety)of a workbench. This Old House books has a fabulous section on restoration of glazed windows - be sure to check it out,and good luck - I love restoring these old windows, and remember that if you do it right they will be superior to anything you could possibly buy today...

if you try from the outside you will be removing the outside moulding which will be difficult to mount as tight as original. which ever way, don't drop the weights as I just did. the interior plaster has to be opened to get it back.

I will soon be repairing some upper and lower sashes too and was enlightened by the question and answers. 10 hardware and home improvement stores in Houston have 1/4" and 3/8" cotton sash cord. My cords were 5/16" and fit my pulleys exactly. When I used 1/4" in the past sometimes the rope would get jammed in a loose pulley. The 3/8" is a little too snug. Should I just use the 1/4" or is there a source on 5/16" sash cord?

[This message has been edited by Tom Yeager (edited February 07, 2001).]

Got two spams here that need to be deleted.

About those windows, these days you can buy hand blown glass with waves and bubbles to match the old glass. When you replace on old broken pane of glass with machine made glass--it just looks different.

A lot of the glass shops and lumber yards carry this type of reproduction glass. I think that it is worth the extra money but then, I always notice details.

Good luck.

Bev.

Hello Bev,
Done and if you find any more email me at Ralj7@AOL.com

Respectfully,

Ralph Jones

Hello,


We go with the city (when they issue demo permits) and get with the demo company to remove any old windows the morning a house is torn down. To most people there is no value in old windows, the demo crews have concerns with exploding glass as the home is torn down.


So it may be of interest to check on homes on the demo block in your neighborhood..


Thanks..


Rob