I have a Lifetime halltree with no drip pan. Does anyone have information on Lifetime drip pans? Brass; copper; spun; hammered, etc? The hole for the drip pan is 5 inches across.

Most of the pans I have seen for unbrella stands were made of copper. I suspect it could have been hand hammered. I have had the pleasure of making a few of these pans for unsigned umbrella stands. I cannot say for sure what the norm was for the Lifetime furniture. Do you know when your hall tree was made?

Hi Fred - thanks for your reply. I believe that my hall tree was made circa 1910 - 1915. It has the original ebonized finish with brass or copper hooks [their patina is so dark, I can't tell which], and iron umbrella holder. If you'd like, I can send you a picture. The round opening in the oak base is 5" across. I've done quite a bit of straightening and patination of copper pieces with great success, but I've never made a piece from scratch.
Regards,
Gary

Good Morning Gettonna,
First of all welcome to these forums and we hope you will return often.
Now you two have whetted my whistle as I have never even heard of a drip pan on a hall tree or an umbrella stand but we can all learn something every day. I can see where they would be very useful especially if you came in from a downpour. Maybe some pictures are due on this subject that those of us who have been around but are wanting to learn something new as to the size and shape of these well needed items as I can see their worthiness.

Respectfully,

Ralph

Hi Gary,

The drip pan would not be that difficult. If you cut out a 5" disk in a sheet of 1/2" or 3/4" plywood that matched the opening in your umbrella stand. You can then lay a 7"x7" sqare sheet of 18 gauge or even 20 gauge copper over the cutout and begin sinking the the copper along the perimeter of the cutout with a ball pein end of a hammer. Do not strike the metal in the middle. Just the perimeter and allow the sunken perimeter to carry the bottom of the tray with it. Take your time and do not rush it. You may need to anneal the copper and true the edge so it does not warp periodically. Once you have reached the depth you need, you can cut the edges to whatever shape you see fit to match the stand.

Best,
Fred