Hello,

I am new to this forum, and to the world of arts & crafts design and am hoping some seasoned A&C aficionados can help me.

I have a nice collection of art nouveau prints and as I am getting married and buying a house I have started collecting arts & crafts / mission style furniture.

However, I have a solid maple bedroom set circa 1930s-40s I inherited as a child that has loads of sentimental value (I cannot bear to part with it). It is simple and has clean lines and I think it could work with arts & crafts pieces, if I refinish the set.

My question is: can you recommend any stains or finishes that could work with Maple to create a more Arts & Crafts-ish effect? It currently has that dark, reddish antique maple stain so popular in it's era.

Thanks for any help!

Hello Izzy,
Yes, I can help you quite a lot as I am working on many refurbishing pieces in the same manner as I am going to relate to you. First strip in a well ventilated room or if weather permits, outside. When stripping I like to use denatured alcohol which is reasonal in cost as most pieces are finished in lacquer, however if it does not cut through you may have to go with Zip Strip which is rather costly but necessary to do the job.

After you have stripped it enough to sand use 100 grit Emory cloth rather than sand paper as it will last longer than the sand paper. Sand down to 150 and 200 grit on the open ends of the piece. Now since it is maple you will need to make a wash or face the possibility of a blotchy appearance. To make the wash mix three parts of mineral spirits to one part of the stain, which is Varethane Gun Stock, that replaces the old Mission Oak.

Apply the wash liberally but, do not let any runs or drips remain always over lap as you are applying it with a good rag such as an old T shirt torn into smaller pieces.
Allow the wash to dry over night and then come back with the full strength stain by hand and using the same type of rag for a good smooth finish on the staining portion of your job.

Then after it has dried for 24 hours lightly sand the entire piece with 150 grit Emory and apply your first coat of Minwax Tung Oil. Again using the hand rubbed effect like you do whn wxing your car. Allow that first coat to dry for 24 hours, sand and apply the second coat of the same finish. Allow it to dry over night, again lightly sand with the same method and apply with a third coat. Allow to dry to the touch and if you desire apply a forth coat, and so on if you desire to apply the fifth coat is up to you. It will look a foot deep and bring out the grain beautifully.

Nothing leaves my shop with out at least those five coats and two coats of Johnshon's paste wax for wood, buffed to a smooth sheen.

Respectfully,

Ralph Jones

quote:

Varethane Gun Stock

Thank you so much Ralph! I can't wait to get to work.

My best,
Izzy

Good Evening Izzy,
Please forgive my spelling. Since my old computor got hit by ligtning I can seem to find a good spelling counterpart. Now when I click on the spell check it wants to take me to a dictionary. I am going to try to once again locate my old spell check, then my postings should not be so bad.

Pertaining to refinishing your bedroom suit, please lay down some cardboard so as not to leave a very bad stain in the garage floor if you are going to work on it there. Also when you use paper towels for wiping down with drop them on the cardboard and allow them to dry or dispose them in an air tight container to avoid spontainous combustion.

Also while you are in the stripping mode allow the chemicals to work until the surface has a puckered apperience or if you use denatured alcohol you may work with it as you go along by gently rubbing back and forth till you see the layers of the old finish disapear. I prefer to use #3 imitation steel wool made by the 3-M company a it does a fantastic job.

Should you have any questions as you go along please feel free to email me at Ralj7@AOL.com
Do keep in touch with me daily if you like.

Respectfully,

Ralph