I recently reassembled a Stickley Bros rocker #345 and used Titebond Pro wood glue. In the process I was thinking about how I have heard others talking about hide glue and that it is more period. Other than being more authentic are there advantages to using it? Disadvantages? It seems that modern formulations of glue are probably well advanced. They should be stronger and more durable than 100 years ago, right? Opinions?

, never tried it myself...

I recall as a kid helping prepare hide glue/rabbit glue by melting the chunks of glue in a double boiler/glue pot. It was rather messy and had a distinct odor. We used it exclussively on furniture.

I repaired an English pewter cigarette box that had a wood lining and the lining was attached to the pewter with hide glue. I discovered that Elmer's makes a hide glue in liquid form and so to keep the style and technique used in the box I used it and it was rather easy to use. Much like using a thick form of mucilage glue.

Hide glue can be removed while most of the new glues are rather permanent.

Fred

titebond also makes a liquid hide glue, i have used it for the crackle finish(not too successfully) but not for gluing.
here is a link to a site with some guys having a pretty in depth discussion about hide glue.
http://www.woodcentral.com/chats/chat_edwards_11108.shtml

Hide glue is recommended by purists for repairing antiques. Unlike the standard yellow glue, hide glue is gap filling, which is usually a necessary quality for repairs. The only alternative glue for repairs is epoxy, which is also gap filling, but permanent.

I have used the Titebond hide glue for repairs. It releases quite easily with heat, so it is very easy to fix mistakes. I suspect epoxy is stronger, and that is why so many people use it for repairs.

Hide glue is still available in its original form, where it is usually used with a glue pot. Woodworker's Supply carries both the glue and the glue pot.

I have never seen hide glue recommended for original construction. I'm not sure why, but I suspect there has been so much work perfecting the yellow glues that they are quite good.

Sure you have the old timers that swear by hide glues.. But the glues of today are far superior in strength. Just look at the new poly glues .. Gorilla is a poly based glue, that expands as it cures. When the glue is fully cured, it is as strong as the wood.. pretty hard to beat. Also the glue causes the wood to slightly expand in the joint, making it very tough. However, poly glues can be a real mess to work with.

Titebond is an excellent glue..

It really all boils down to a few things..

1) surface prep.. Clean all of the joints to be glued with rubbing alcohol
2) Give the glue plenty of time to cure before you take it out of the clamps.. several days is ideal.
3) Proper joints.. A crappy wood joint is still going to make a crappy 'glued' wood joint..

I am sure there are purists that will say otherwise.. but the glues of today just can;t be beat..

Actually, modern glues are not as strong as the wood; they are stronger. I have seen woodworking books speak of testing a joinery technique (let's say it's the first time you've ever done a mortise and tenon joint) by joining up some scrap, letting the glue set and then breaking the joint. If the construction is done properly, the wood will break and the glue will hold.

Paul,

Welcome to the forum. It is great to see new faces here and to see those who have taken time to register as a member. Hope you will be able to gather as much as you give.

Fred

Fred,

Thanks for the welcome. I had posted earlier on the spam issue, but finally got around to registering.

HouseOfYesteryear: What is the function of the rubbing alcohol? That's one I haven't heard before.

Hello,

actually, the rubbing alcohol removes any impurities from the surface of the wood. You will always have a little dust, but this gives as clean of a surface as possible.


A few tricks working with poly glue (like gorilla glue)

(1) wear latex gloves.. very difficult to remove the glue from your hands.
(2) The glue will expand out of the joint (it looks like expansion foam) .. you want to detail scrape just prior to hardening.. It should be at a soft foam stage. Simply scrape it off with an old (but sharp) chistle.
(3) pre stain your pieces if possible. I tape off all of my tenons, and pre stain the pieces prior to assembly... Reason being, glue will not stick to a stained surface. Just be careful not to get any into the mortise pocket or on the tenons..

Pre stain, glue and assemble, scrape off the glue after it has set.. , Touch up sand if needed, re~stain the piece, and apply the finish.

Piece of cake...