I have acquired Limbert's magazine stand model #300 from a local antique shop recently. I had to look past the semi-gloss black paint that was freshly applied, and remove the piles of doilies and dishes, but none the less I got it. There are a few sopts where the paint has chipped or scrapped off and I can still see the original finish underneath. I've stripped furniture before and I know that any chemical I have used will go right thru this paint and not stop at the finish, taking it off too. Is there anyway, albeit painstaking, to get the paint off without taking all the orignal finish with? It actually appears to have been spray paint if that makes a difference. I'd post a picture but I don't think it would help in this case. I think all it would do is make people drool over my $34 investment. I know I would be! Any help or comments would be appreciated, thanks!

That's a tough one. Other than super careful scraping with a razor blade maybe, I can't think of anything else. A heat gun would be too risky. Maybe someone else has an idea...

Hi, this is what I did with paint drips. This might work on your Limbert Magazine rack.

Because we desperately needed a bookcase to hold old VCR tapes for the kids (I just wanted them out of the living room), I bought a dorky little v-shaped shelf bookcase for $20 from the back room of this antique shop. It is not mission but it was splattered in little drops of oil based and water based paint.

To get the paint off the wood, I used an old painter's trick. Locally, they use a product that is meant to clean windows but it removes paint off the door trim, window sills, etc. Well, after about an hour last night, I have removed most of drops of paint from the bookcase. In some areas, I have lightned the finish but it is still intact.

It is called:
Spray Dirtex Cleaner made by Savogran. It has a very strong smell that goes away quickly but it works like magic on paint drips. The painters claim that the spray works better than the bottle.

Bev.

Jayk,

An image would still be nice. Drooling at the good fortune of others is acceptable. It is always good to see before images so we can learn. I look forward to seeing a pic or two.

Fred

Actually starting with a heat gun would loosen up the old paint so that the expensive spray could work faster.

You can buy that stuff at the places where all the professional painters get the good stuff. I got mine at Sherman Williams.

The question is or I should say the problem is:
what kind of paint is on there? Water based paint will come off an oil based finish a lot easier than a layer of old oil paint. Why? Because water based paint will sit on top of the finish while the oil based paint will try to bond with the oil based finish.

If you are considering any sanding, you might want to be aware that the old oil based paint may have lead in it. You don't want that stuff in your lungs. You can buy a test kit at your local hardware store if you are concerned.

Yea, I would love to see a picture.

Yes, I will drool. But I am still in shock over the Stickley piece I left at the antique store today. I just had to say "no" to a gorgeous 48" Stickley V shaped settle (#212) because it was too pricey for us right now. And I know how hard they are to find. At least I got to sit in it for a while. Wow, was it nice.

Sigh, I hate budgets.

Bev.

Hi Jay. Wow...its nice to find something like that. Congratulations.

Two years ago I got a phone call from a woman who was disposing of her mothers property after placing her in a nursing home. She and her siblings had taken what was promised to them and were anxious to see if her mom's "cathedral" bookcase would be something I might purchase, or if they could add it to their "burn pile." I hustled to the home and found a painted, 3 door, Stickley Bros. bookcase in the basement, as well as a burn pile in which several rough Victorian walnut pieces were smoldering. I saved the remaining pieces and was able to remove the two coats of paint..green and white..from the bookcase, by carefully using a heat gun at 1000 degrees. It was tedious, but well worth the effort. I did use chemical stripper on the hardware, submerging the pulls, hinges and screws in an old coffee can, and pouring fresh stripper into the can. It worked very well. If you decide to try this, use a dull puddy knife to remove the paint, being careful not to gouge the precious material below. Good luck. I also look forward to an image once you are done!

Good Morning,


The best stripper on the market is made by Parks. You can get it at Lowes, Menards etc.. It is in a red can and is sold as a liquid and a semi paste (you want the semi paste).. apply a good coat and cover with a thick plastic, let it set for a few minutes.. This stuff will eat its way through anything, so be careful. The active ingrediant is Methenol Chloride.. I am really shocked the stuff is still legal, it is really good (and I am sure it is very toxic as well).

Heat guns work well, but I find with a porous wood like oak, a heat gun really just removes the top layer, but will still leave paint in the pores.

Thanks..

Rob
www.houseofyesteryear.net

Thanks for all the comments everyone. Rob, i've used Parks products before and agree 100% that they are very effective and realatively easy to use. And I really feel that the old finish is just under the paint so from other's experiences with the heat gun I think i'll try that first. And then on to the the Park's products. And you wanted to see so i'll post a picture...or two

Here's some other stuff from this years travels. The morris chair is JM Young, needs some work as you can tell. The smoking stand is Lakeside crafters signed original finish and just so neat. That was an ebay steal. And then we have a Grand Rapids chair company seccesionist style arm chair. Original finish and extremely good condition. Another steal.

Very cool pieces..

I really like the chair.. I mean I REALLY like the chair. The arts and crafts chair with the spindles... The one with the key latch style back.. very cool. Mind if i copy the design and make one?

Rob,

You may have to pay him a finder's fee.

Bev.

And here we have the final product. The heat gun works well for getting the bulk of the paint off. I think it's a bit less messy than just throwing it to the stripper. But I did have to use chemical stripper to get the residue off. A little color and a top coat or two and here it is. Look at that wood!!

One more pic...

quote:

Originally posted by jayk:
And here we have the final product. The heat gun works well for getting the bulk of the paint off. I think it's a bit less messy than just throwing it to the stripper. But I did have to use chemical stripper to get the residue off. A little color and a top coat or two and here it is. Look at that wood!!

Simply stunning!

I'm curious as to what technique you used for the coloring. Stain or dye, and what forumula? Amber shellac top coats I presume?

Jayk,

That is impressive grain....It is a wonder why someone would paint over such grain. I suppose it is change in taste and style. Thanks for keeping us posted on your progress and collection.

Fred

Those new pictures of yours, how are the shelves attached? Are they doweled or are those three things per shelf just wooden buttons to cover screw holes?

Were you able to save the old finish at all? The grain is wonderful. You should be proud of yourself for saving that bookcase from a life sentence of displaying doilies.

Congratulations, it turned out great.

Bev.

Stand looks pretty sharp..


You probably won;t have a problem with it on a smaller piece like this.. But as a general rule (just an FYI), when you use screws in wood, it should not be driving into the end grain of the wood.. reason being, it is prone to splitting end grain and the threading of the screw will work out over time. But i think it really depends more on how the piece will be used.. pieces like chairs, settles, beds etc.. that are heavy use items, are really more of a critical issue..


It really does look nice, great attention to detail, fantastic coloring.. Nice finish..


great job....

great job, looks great on ebay. hope the best (price) for you.

my local dealer has the same stand with several of the buttons missing. i am going to try to use some commerical oak buttons to replace after the holiday.

questions, questions...

1) Are the shelves actually held by screws or are they in fact held by through dowels which would make more sense per the comments on screwing into end grain?

2) Are the buttons oak, or are they something else like maple with tighter grain? I've tried oak plugs but they break along the grain really easily (so why do they even make them these days?)

I've always wondered about these sorts of stands and who did what to hold the shelves. If Limbert used screws and oak plugs he was taking the easy and less reliable route with this model, which is in contrast to using such good quality 1/4 cut wood.

OK, i'm going to try to answer all the questions in this one response.
First of all to adress the "buttons". They are original to the piece, made of oak, and all of them are too secure for me to try and pry off at this point. I guess I just assumed they were plugs for screws, which I still believe they are. But I guess they could be covering dowels...maybe?
unfourtunately none of this is original as far as finish goes. Had to break out the bad stuff to get all the residue from the corners, and mainly the undersides of the shelves.
The coloring was simply some water based stain, actually red mahogany, and the finish was applied by someone else who helps me on my finishing projects. I let him talk me into his finish which I believe he sprays on. I don't normally do that at all but i'm actually pretty impressed. It's not bad at all, and i've seen some caked on spray finishes that look horrible. I normally use the shellac for the top coats but figured i'd experiment at his expense since he said he'd re-do it if I was unhappy.
it is on ebay right now, buy it now of $945...some may say that's a bit steep, but I don't think it's too far off. I've seen original finish ones go for as much as $2k, but on average for around $1,200-$1,400. I think it turned out great and am entertaining offers.
Hope that covers everyone...thanks for the interest. It's good to see some life from the forum. I'll let you all know if and when I find more great stuff.